26/03/2017

Where Is 'Home' for an Expat?

Where is home for an expat? - The Strayling

Moving abroad from the familiarity of one's home country can be an exciting and terrifying experience at the same time. But what happens when you visit home after years of living abroad? Suddenly not feeling at home in your own country can take you by surprise. Where's your home now, expat?

Every migrant must have heard the classic, silently judgemental comment at some point of their foreign journey: "So... when will you stop this aimless wander and come back home?" It's a harmless wish expressed by someone who loves and misses you back in where everything is just like in the old days. Someone wants you back there so things could be like they used to - you could stroll around those same old streets, buy those good old local groceries and chit chat away in your native language. It's an invitation to that reassuring familiarity, suggesting that anything and everything you experienced since leaving your home country's soil was just a temporary displacement, like a journey made by Bilbo Baggings, and in the end you can always fly back home into the open arms of your welcoming native land. But does it really work like that?

If you were born and raised in a single country to parents with a single nationality, the case looks clear at first glance: you grew up in Finland to Finnish parents, what's the problem? Your home is in Finland. Stop acting like a special snowflake. However, this blog post is not written with the thought of contesting the idea of 'home country', despite the complexity of that very notion to those individuals who have migrated at very early age  - it's to contest the idea of 'home', and how our sense of home can shift as we ramble on around the world and plant seeds of ourselves in all its different soils.

The experience of migration inevitably involves the confrontation between 'home' and 'away' - to travel is to move, to estrange yourself from familiarity and inhabit an unfamiliar space. That unfamiliarity in a new space goes by the name 'culture shock': the habits we found comfortable, reassuring and deeply rooted in our spine are gone, and have been replaced by some sort of anomaly that only poorly replaces the things you hold dear. If you're from a northern nation like yours truly, entering a southern culture sphere with much less personal space and much more kisses on cheeks can be an absolute shock for someone like us who are used to silently staring at other people from a distance. The 'Away', the opposite of your home, is filled with these anomalies, unfamiliarities and wrong kind of bread. Everything back home was so comfortable.

But as time goes by, your survival instinct kicks in and you start inhabiting this unfamiliar space with more confidence. Kisses on cheeks? Bring it on, bro! Embrace me like the latino you are! A bottle of juice and a bag of crisps for lunch? Whatever you say Tesco, I'll take your meal deal, I'm too hungry to fight it. As the days, months and years pass by, these unfamiliarities turn into familiarities: your every morning starts with a bag of apple-cinnamon oatmeal and instant coffee, you surf the tube system eyes closed and speak the foreign language in your sleep. You're on track with everything going on in your host country, every local celebrity photographed drunk in a bar, every politician embarrassing themselves in public, every reform made to a healthcare policy.

Vancouver Art Gallery - The Strayling

Then you encounter that person. "When will you stop this aimless wander and come back home?" And as the plane lands and you enter that once familiar soil of your reassuringly familiar home country, you expect everything to have stayed exactly as they were since the day you left.

But it hasn't.

Why does rye bread make my tummy ache so bad? Why does Finnish coffee suddenly taste so bitter? What new transportation system? Wait, where did they put that new tramline? No sorry, I haven't really followed the news, don't know what's going on in the politics. Yeah.

The home your family talked about suddenly feels so alien. Why? What did you do wrong? This is your home country, you've missed salty liquorice since the day you left, and died to spend a day in the summery, sunny streets of Helsinki just like back in the days. Why does it feels so... not at all home?

Our understanding of 'home' comes from familiarity. What is familiar is what we feel comfortable with; we surround ourselves with things that make our everyday life run smoothly, simply. What is not often considered in the notion of migration, of estranging yourself from familiarity and your home country is that travelling doesn't only include a spatial dislocation, the act of leaving the familiar place, but a temporal dislocation. My Finland is the Finland of the past, the one I left three years ago: this 'past' is now associated with home that I can no longer return to, because it doesn't exist in the present. This is why 'home' is always a question of memory.

This 'home' we crave for becomes a mythic place of no return - the geographical location exists, Finland is always there if I wish to return to its familiar sounds and smells. But the time and place of the home country we knew has passed on, has morphed the way us emigrants have evolved and changed. The terrifying realisation of not knowing where you are while standing in the middle of that shopping centre you've spent time in since you were five years old - it was renovated while you were gone, and you're now completely at the mercy of your friend to lead you through corridors and shops you've never seen before. The corridors you knew are long since demolished.

What that person asking you to come home means with 'home' is that space you inhabited as the person you were years ago. But it ignores the pain of an emigrant who returns to this space and is put on the mercy of others' hospitality, of accommodating you on their sofas and futons, of letting you use their monthly bus card so you could stop spending your now foreign currency on single tickets. Home is not being on the mercy of public wi-fis as you no longer have a Finnish phone number.

You have become a visitor in your own home country.

The empire State building in New York, USA - The Strayling

The nostalgia of walking the streets once part of your everyday reality only carries you so far. Day by day you start missing your oatmeal-instant coffee breakfast (possibly because that once so familiar Finnish nutrition is now completely alien to your digestion system), your new vacuum cleaner you just bought back in Dublin, the smell of the Guinness factory roasting malt on weekends.

You wanted to return 'home' to your family and friends, to salty liquorice and sunny days in Helsinki, but those expectations you put into this experience inspired by your memories can't be dug up from your luggage you spread on your family home's floor. You're a stranger in your own Finnish skin, speaking your native language feels reassuring and alien at the same time. You accidentally answer to people in a wrong language and get judgemental looks from your friends as you try to explain you don't do it to seem special. It's just... what you're familiar with now.

Your family and friends were not there to see you change. They didn't sit on your back as you were lost in Montréal, they didn't hold your hand as you accidentally kissed someone on the lips while trying to go for the wrong cheek first. They weren't there as you shed your Finnish skin and started asking 'how are you?' from every person encountered, when you learned to chit chat about weather with the Irish. But the same way those people didn't see you change, you weren't there to see your home country change like they did.

The unexpected, unfamiliar space entering your bubble of familiarity in the form of a culture shock, requiring the shedding of your skin, an irritating itch (as put by Sarah Ahmed) moulds you little by little. Travelling is about the surprises in sensation: different smells, different sounds, different tastes and people. As time goes by, those surprises become more and more rare. The shedding. You've become a summary of all your lived experiences around the world and no longer fit into the old mould of that person you were when you first left.

Fishing huts in Porvoo, Finland - The Strayling

This experience of leaving home and returning to an unfamiliar place is the failure of your memories to make sense of those changes: 'failure which is experienced in the discomfort of inhabiting a migrant body, a body which feels out of place, which feels uncomfortable in this place', as put by Ahmed. You can no longer inhabit this once familiar space in the way you thought would be familiar.

My parents divorced when I was very young, and none of us stayed in that home, in that city, after it was all over and life went on. Despite my dreams occasionally still taking me back to that apartment in Espoo, nudging me towards a place my subconscious still believes is my home, it's a place of no return, a space which no longer exists. I believe this experience has affected my abilities to adapt to change, to the feeling of displacement and making myself feel easily at home in an unfamiliar space. 

Exactly the same way I identified my 'home' as the place where (as tacky as it sounds) my heart was as a child - by my family, not in a certain geographical location - I now as an adult identify my home by my Canadian partner, Alex. He's my anchor, the familiarity I will carry with me wherever I go - the mixture of French and English, of chocolate spread on my toast and of rising intonation when asking questions (something I really had to practice so he'd understand I'm asking a question!). The memories created with him are my present, and the memories I have of Finland I will always associate with my 'home country', but no longer with my 'home'.

Home is where your heart is, right?

(This post was inspired by Sarah Ahmed's wonderful article Home and Away: Narratives of Migration and Estrangement, and Avtar Brah's book Cartographies of Diaspora: Contesting Identities.)

 Where is your home? Have you felt like a tourist in your home country after moving abroad? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Love, Melissa

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21/10/2016

LIFE WITH A NON-EU CITIZEN


You know what's annoying? Migration. You know what's even more annoying? Migrating in the EU with a non-EU citizen.

I have migrated to three foreign countries during my lifetime. Moving to UK and Ireland were fairly painless as a EU citizen - I basically just walked in and stated "I live here now". Don't get me wrong: it's not actually that easy, and migrating to another EU country still asks for a lot of paper work and aimless running. Take my most recent migration experience to Ireland, for instance. Settling to Dublin went basically like this:

  1. Search for a flat. Find out your landlord wants a reference. Awkwardly send a few emails to your former landlords in Finland and beg them to write you recommendation letters in English (if they can).
  2. Open a bank account. Find out you need a proof of address. A job or a Personal Public Service number should do the trick.
  3. Book an appointment to obtain a PPS number. Find out you need a proof of employment to get one.
  4. Find a job. Find out your employer needs your PPS number to properly hire you.
  5. Repeat the loop until you start crying.

In the end I was able to get a proof of address from the academic registry of my university, which allowed me to open a bank account and get a PPS number. I'm now a happy resident of Ireland. (Don't think opening a bank account was all that simple, though: during the 5 weeks that followed I received 5 different letters until I finally had all the information needed to have a fully functioning bank account!)

But Canada. God damn that was some serious paperwork right there. Judging from my Facebook update back in April 2015 the immigration process seemed to have caused some gray hair:


In other words, I have it easy now that Alex and I are back in Europe. I can just rush through the border control with my fancy chipped EU passport and then disappear forever. Watching my Canadian partner ramble through his immigration process occasionally makes me feel like my EU passport is like a golden ticket to Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory.


The last few weeks have been extremely stressful. The Garda National Immigration Bureau (GNIB) requires every non-EU citizen to register at their office within 90 days of arriving to the country. This requires a bunch of supporting documents, of course. Previously you were supposed to camp outside the doors at dawn and hope to be through with it within the next 9 hours. However, just recently they switched to an electronic booking system where you can book your registration appointment a maximum of 6 weeks in advance. Too bad all the appointments within those 6 weeks were already fully booked, and Alex would be kicked out of the country 5 days before the next available appointment. What a nice dead end.

A dozen phone calls, emails and bureau visits later the issue was solved, but I feel like my life expectancy just got at least 5 years shorter due to the stress caused by yet another immigration issue threatening our relationship. I'm not saying I'm against such regulations, not at all. Sometimes the little human can just get lost in this jungle of procedures and formalities, and it gets tiring after a while.

In the future I'll try to update more often with smaller posts about everyday adventures like this. What do you think?

Do you have any similar experiences? Does migration ever make you have grey hair? Share your experiences in the comments below! 


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10/09/2016

WHY I MOVED ABROAD


"You're from Finland? But isn't that like one of the best countries in the world? Why on earth would you move somewhere else?" You can't imagine how often I've heard this. I'm so used to explaining my current whereabouts it has become like a mantra created solely to make people understand my motives for emigration. So what pushed me to leave Finland and seek life elsewhere?


  THE MYTH BUSTER

The most common misconception coming with the question posed in the first sentence of this post is that somehow moving away from a country has something to do with personal hatred, disappointment or even a feeling of not belonging. My emigration from Finland somehow resonates back to people as "Finland, you failed me and we're done". Of course this can be the case, and it should be perfectly acceptable in itself - there surely are places where the state can't possibly offer its citizens the safety and economic stability they would need to establish a life there. However, as a citizen of a western welfare state with free internationally praised education, free universal healthcare system and number 5 on The World Happiness Index 2016 I can't argue that, in my situation, the reason for my emigration lies somewhere in there.

In other words, the whole affair becomes personal really fast. The two countries - your place of origin and the country of immigration - become binary opposites and are put to a position of confrontation, against one another. It's like a competition of one being better than the other. Emigration is easily taken as criticism towards your home country, which is why some Finns might get insulted from the idea of one of their own abandoning the ship and hopping the border. At the same time some locals of your new home country might find it odd you've decided to leave a place with so many virtues. "Do you think it gets any better than that in here?"


Emigration isn't criticism, not always. My emigration isn't. It's not criticism towards Finnish culture, Finnish society or the geographical area called Finland. I have no problem with the darkness, long winters, the cold, the silence of people. I never left because Finland, as a nation and as a culture, somehow failed me or disappointed me. I didn't pack my bags in anger and turn my back to it, I didn't leave as a rebellious protest accompanied with a fanfare as I boarded the plane.

As a kid I thought I would. Because yes, even at the age of 19 I still thought Finland was boring and life would surely get so much better somewhere relevant, like London or Paris. I cared much more about other people's "Finland, where's that?" than I cared about things that actually matter: economics, healthcare, safety. I honestly loathed people who would move abroad and then turn into "little Finnish wussies" missing things back home and trying to tell me how moving away makes you appreciate things in Finland. I didn't want to see or hear any of that because they proved me wrong - that moving abroad isn't magic, and secretly I still loved Finland. I was disappointed how so many expat Finns were not at all like me, who "totally wouldn't ever miss anything and I wouldn't care if I never got to speak Finnish again". And let's face it: this is probably what you expected to read from this post, right?

I was naive, and this naivety is in the core of the question at the top of this post. "Did you move away because you hate Finland?"


  UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL

I moved away because, guys, there are things we can't learn by staying. Living abroad is like a bootcamp to surviving life: the daily struggles you face while travelling the world or immigrating to a new country are like kicks to your crotch, and with every kick you become a little stronger and a little less wimpy. In order to grow as a person you need to take hits, you need to struggle, because at those moments of anger, desperation and hopelessness you may face while being lost in the Australian bush you're face to face with your strongest possible self because you have no other choice.

That strength is something I want to train. I grew up shy, scared and almost mute. I was afraid of everything: people, house plants, loud noises, being alone. Eventually, as an adult, my life reached a state where I couldn't possibly go on the way I had, and after three years of hitting the lowest I have ever been I became angry at myself. I promised I would never be afraid like that again: afraid of disappointment, loss and confusion. I wanted to know what it would feel to be normal, to be an extrovert who isn't afraid of taking the leap and sinking into the unknown.


So I moved to Leicester. By distancing myself from Finland and jumping into my first terra incognita, the land unknown, I gave myself a chance to explore my fears related to losing control - because let's face it, moving abroad can be a pain in the ass! As time went by and I kept facing one struggle after another (missing supporting documents, wrong forms, not knowing how to pay bills for god's sake) I became used to it, and I knew to expect it. Slow and steady I learned to handle disappointments and solve problems instead of sitting down and crying about it.

I moved abroad because I needed it - many of us do. I needed to face the people, speak foreign languages, fail and then try again. We all have our own life-changing moments, and one of mine is definitely that time I sat down to my seat on my British Airways flight with a one-way ticket to London, at 05.30am in the morning. I was heading to a life of uncertainty, unpredictability and discomfort. I had no idea what I was doing and that's exactly what I needed to do.


  CONCLUSION

Finland is ranked as one of the most equal countries (SOURCE) with one of the highest per capita incomes (SOURCE) in the world. Finland has incredible scores regarding freedom of speech and freedom of press (SOURCE). In this light, it might seem odd for foreigners that someone in the possession of a passport and citizenship to this Scandinavian shangri-la would voluntarily choose to move elsewhere and turn their back to all these international statistics.

I did because, despite Finland's many virtues, there's a whole world out there. There are places to be and people to meet, immigration forms to fill and trans-Siberian trains to catch. Emigration doesn't have to be criticism or trying to find greener grass from the other side of the fence: sometimes it's all about self exploration, leaping into the unknown and hunger for more life.

Will I ever move back? At this point in my life I have no clue. If I do, despite everything I've seen and done during the past three years, it will be the bravest thing I will ever have done.


Have you moved abroad? Why? Share your story in the comments below!


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08/08/2016

First Impression of Dublin


Here I sit, finding myself as a newly arrived immigrant in yet another strange country. French has switched to English, poutine to stews of all sorts and all the beer - well, to more beer. A month has passed since I moved from Canada to Ireland, and it has surely taken some struggle getting used to my new hometown, Dublin.

I miss Québec. There, I said it. I miss Québec tremendously, and as I walk around the (unpleasantly often, unlabeled) streets of Dublin I act like a broken-hearted teenager who longs after her ex while leaning on the shoulder of her unsuspecting rebound. Sorry Dublin - just like Québec, I think you have to win me over, because I'm in the midst of a culture shock.

Now I hear a little voice on the back of my head asking "But what about Finland?!" I say Finland, no. You stay out of this. I'm over you and I only see you as a friend with whom I've had some good moments that have turned into memories by now. I just had one hell of a rollercoaster ride of passion, drama and a year full of really weird stuff with Québec, and I don't forget that so easily.

I miss my friends and family from Finland, but let's face it: I haven't lived there for over a year - heck, I didn't even know any of the new shops and hot spots in my old hometown anymore, and I felt like a complete stranger. I had to let my local friends guide me through a jungle of new cafes and renovated shopping centres, because I didn't know where I was. I will surely write a whole separate blog post about this traumatizing experience as an expat Finn, but there's still one place in this world where I know every corner and every stone: Québec City.

I keep comparing Dublin to Québec, and I keep repeating the exact same mistakes and following the exact same patterns of shock and adaptation as I did when I first moved to Canada. So just like I compared Finland and Québec back in the days IN THIS POST, let's see how Dublin has been able to impress, astonish and annoy me so far.

1. THE IRISH BOW TO NO ONE
This is a tough one, because Canada has turned me into one of those spoiled brats who now naively live in the false impression that everyone is as sweet as a sugar pie, gives you a seat in the bus and stops you on the street just to tell you how beautiful your hair is. Quebecers make apologising an art form. They bump into you and before you even know, you've unwillingly engaged yourself into this weird apology dance where the shocked and tearful quebecer is fondling your shoulders while chanting "pardon, excusez-moi, pardon, pardon", and you just kind of stand there and keep saying things like "Pas d'problème", "Pas d'stress" or "Ya pas de quoi" to calm them down. (This apology dance has also occurred to me in St. Petersburg, but went something like "Простите девушка, простите!")

The Irish take none of that shit.
Anne Street South, Dublin

Dublin is like a zombie apocalypse. You walk on Dame Street on a hot summer day and your only strategy of survival is to choose any spot from a distance and then keep your eyes on it while walking straight, no matter what. Just keep looking at the spot. If you make the mistake of looking passers-by in the eyes or letting your gaze wander from one side of the road to another, the zombies will spot your weaknesses and mercilessly walk straight over you. (I quote my friend in here: "It's like they're actually aiming for you. Aiming!") Dublin is a busy city with busy people, and gives me this newyorkish hunch with a European twist.

The same happens in grocery stores. Half of the time there I spend looking for garlic and broccoli, and the other half I dodge other customers. Life is a constant battle.

2. THE IRISH PLAY THE WAITING GAME
Well this is something that Ireland definitely shares with Canada, and grinds the gears of an impatient Finn who's used to things getting done when they're promised to be done. That being said, just last week I finally received a security code for my account for Canada Revenue Agency website BY MAIL. Oh, my dearest Canada. Just when I thought you couldn't be more old-fashioned with your cheques and landline phones, you truly surprise me every time.

Ireland, on the other hand, makes me look back in times when I was living in the United Kingdom, where things often happen with a short (or slightly longer) delay decorated with apologetic courtesy phrases like "We truly apologise for the delay" and "We will look into your matter already this afternoon". Only that the Irish don't do the courtesy part. They just let you wait. At this very moment, on Monday night, I'm still waiting for a phone call that was scheduled for Friday afternoon. I don't have a bank account. I don't have a social security number. I'm not even a student of my university yet. I'm just waiting for someone to push the buttons.

3. THE ACCENT IS MAGIC
Let's be honest, it's good to be back in an English-speaking country. My heart will always have a soft spot for l'accent québécois, but I also happen to truly enjoy the feeling of being able to communicate with other people without having to stop after every other word to blurt out the safety pause "euhh...". The uncomfortable feeling of being a second-class citizen is gone, and I can almost feel like a normal, fully functioning adult who's able to buy her coffees to-go without starting over the phrase "pour emporter" at least three times. Occasionally I still feel self-conscious about my English. Well, I did before last Friday, when in a job interview I was told "Your English is perfect." That smile probably got me the job.


I love the Irish accent. Sometimes I act like a complete creep and just sit in the bus listening to other people's conversations, trying to suck in whatever tiny nuances of pronunciation from their dialect. In Québec I was constantly mistaken as British (to be fair, for quebecers anyone who pronounces the letter T in "water" is British), and hopefully, maybe if I work on my R's and O's enough, next summer those lovely francophone p'tits bébés of Québec will pass me as an Irish. Sláinte, right?

The end of this post will be spared for a reminder for anyone who missed it in the previous post: I NOW HAVE AN INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT! Find me @melliais and stay tuned for weird pictures and weirder hashtags.



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